If anyone is still checking this thing (Danny, I'm talking to you), I just wanted to announce that I've posted 2 new albums on facebook. There is much more to come, but in the meantime, please enjoy the rest of my (select) pictures from India and the first batch from Thailand. Looking forward to getting the ones from Laos up, but it's going to take some time and a much better internet connection.
"Thik Hain": http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2557203&id=28100502&l=69b03a52ef
"Sawadee Karp": http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2557508&id=28100502&l=c0235c57a9
Thursday, July 23, 2009
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
I've been remiss, to say the least
My friend, David, recently wrote this to me in an email: "I am...glad that I am not the only one to start a blog, enthusiastically post about 4 times, then subsequently neglect it. I swear I'll get back to it." Indeed.
If any of you are still reading this, I must apologize for enjoying life on the road so much that I haven't found time to update the blog in 2 months. But I haven't forgotten about it; I continue to take meticulous notes in my journal (now halfway through my second.) And even if it takes me another year to finish recording all the things I want to share from this epic journey, I will not shirk the task. So thanks for sticking around, and keep reading...
Last time I left you, I was still in India. That was an embarrassingly long time ago. Since then, I spent another 2 weeks traveling through India - mostly in Dharamsala, the headquarters of the Tibetan government-in-exile; 5 weeks in Thailand; and I've now been 3 weeks in Laos. The next 2 weeks will see me go through Laos, Cambodia (tomorrow), Thailand, Jordan, Israel, and, finally, back to Canada. So I'm going to put aside the past for now, and focus on the present: Laos (pronounced "Lao".)
What an incredible country! Laos has reaped the benefits, and misfortunes, of being the crossroads of Southeast Asia, bordering China and Burma to the north, Thailand to the west, Cambodia to the south, and Vietnam to the east. Despite having so many neighbours - or, perhaps, because of this - the government has gone to great pains to maintain a distinct culture and feel to the place; they've been aided and abetted by Communism (yes, Laos is a Communist country.) Just as many Canadians are quick to describe Canada as "not America," many Lao would make that same, important distinction with Thailand. It is relatively easy for me to make the same comparison after having seen and observed so much of both countries. Whereas in Thailand one gets the impression that "everything is for sale" (literally everything: history, culture, people, etc.), Laos exudes the feeling of being genuine and still highly preserved; though there is no doubt that this is being slowly reversed and encroached upon, the result of which may be a loss of what makes Laos so special and so unlike her boisterous, noisy, melodramatic cousin.
My first impression of Laos, traveling by the notorious "slow boat" (a 2-day trip from Chiang Khong, Thailand, that should be avoided, save for its beauty, at any expense), was admiration and awe for its intense beauty: from misty mountain tops and clouds seemingly floating above like smoke, to rice paddies and foot-hills shrouded in thick layers of the greenest, lushest green, this country is shockingly stunning. It's almost impossible not to experience this anywhere in the country, from the north to its most southern tip. And possibly the best way to experience this beauty is on bicycle or motorbike; it really is one of the most spectacular places I've ever been.
Having started to write again, it feels quite difficult to stop. There is so much that I want to share but, unfortunately, time is working against me right now. One book I would like to recommend for anyone particularly curious or interested in Laos, its people, history and culture, is Another Quiet American, by Brett Dakin, who worked in Vientiane, the capital, for 2 years upon graduating from Princeton in 1997. Dakin really gets most of the analysis spot-on without compromising his reflections and writing too much through the inevitable prism of our own biases. His memoir affirmed many of my own thoughts and experiences from travelling through the country and made Vientiane truly come alive. Seriously enjoyable reading.
So, again, to recap: thanks for being patient if you have stumbled back to my blog. I can promise - without any strict timeline, just as is done in Laos - more good things to come in the future.
If any of you are still reading this, I must apologize for enjoying life on the road so much that I haven't found time to update the blog in 2 months. But I haven't forgotten about it; I continue to take meticulous notes in my journal (now halfway through my second.) And even if it takes me another year to finish recording all the things I want to share from this epic journey, I will not shirk the task. So thanks for sticking around, and keep reading...
Last time I left you, I was still in India. That was an embarrassingly long time ago. Since then, I spent another 2 weeks traveling through India - mostly in Dharamsala, the headquarters of the Tibetan government-in-exile; 5 weeks in Thailand; and I've now been 3 weeks in Laos. The next 2 weeks will see me go through Laos, Cambodia (tomorrow), Thailand, Jordan, Israel, and, finally, back to Canada. So I'm going to put aside the past for now, and focus on the present: Laos (pronounced "Lao".)
What an incredible country! Laos has reaped the benefits, and misfortunes, of being the crossroads of Southeast Asia, bordering China and Burma to the north, Thailand to the west, Cambodia to the south, and Vietnam to the east. Despite having so many neighbours - or, perhaps, because of this - the government has gone to great pains to maintain a distinct culture and feel to the place; they've been aided and abetted by Communism (yes, Laos is a Communist country.) Just as many Canadians are quick to describe Canada as "not America," many Lao would make that same, important distinction with Thailand. It is relatively easy for me to make the same comparison after having seen and observed so much of both countries. Whereas in Thailand one gets the impression that "everything is for sale" (literally everything: history, culture, people, etc.), Laos exudes the feeling of being genuine and still highly preserved; though there is no doubt that this is being slowly reversed and encroached upon, the result of which may be a loss of what makes Laos so special and so unlike her boisterous, noisy, melodramatic cousin.
My first impression of Laos, traveling by the notorious "slow boat" (a 2-day trip from Chiang Khong, Thailand, that should be avoided, save for its beauty, at any expense), was admiration and awe for its intense beauty: from misty mountain tops and clouds seemingly floating above like smoke, to rice paddies and foot-hills shrouded in thick layers of the greenest, lushest green, this country is shockingly stunning. It's almost impossible not to experience this anywhere in the country, from the north to its most southern tip. And possibly the best way to experience this beauty is on bicycle or motorbike; it really is one of the most spectacular places I've ever been.
Having started to write again, it feels quite difficult to stop. There is so much that I want to share but, unfortunately, time is working against me right now. One book I would like to recommend for anyone particularly curious or interested in Laos, its people, history and culture, is Another Quiet American, by Brett Dakin, who worked in Vientiane, the capital, for 2 years upon graduating from Princeton in 1997. Dakin really gets most of the analysis spot-on without compromising his reflections and writing too much through the inevitable prism of our own biases. His memoir affirmed many of my own thoughts and experiences from travelling through the country and made Vientiane truly come alive. Seriously enjoyable reading.
So, again, to recap: thanks for being patient if you have stumbled back to my blog. I can promise - without any strict timeline, just as is done in Laos - more good things to come in the future.
Thursday, May 7, 2009
First batch of photos up...
Select shots from Delhi, Agra, Varanasi, Lucknow, Jaipur and Udaipur. Check them out. Considering the difficulties encountered trying to post these, not to mention how much time it took, I probably won't publish more pictures until the end of my India travels. Stay tuned...
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
Culture shock, indeed
The following are my most immediate thoughts and observations about general life in India. Much of it is based on my experiences in Delhi, and even from my brief travels within the country so far, I've learned that despite certain similarities and shared experiences, it's pretty difficult to generalize or stereotype across the board. So while it is brutally honest, much of what I have to say may be tinged with ignorance and naivety. Many people familiar with India may laugh or cry in agreement, or they may vociferously disagree with what I have to say. I suppose it's a testament to just how varied experiences can be from one person to the next and, indeed, within India, itself.
The most vivid description I can offer is that India is an assault on the senses, both magical and terrible at the same time. There is spectacular colour and diversity, but there is equally shocking poverty and filth. Life is lived with seemingly reckless abandonment. It only takes an attempt at crossing the street to see this, where one literally takes their life in their hands at every swerve and turn to avoid an oncoming vehicle. Then again, driving here - mind you, just being a passenger - is one of the most incredibly frightening experiences you can possible have; yet, at the same time, there's a strange calm that accompanies it, as well. Despite my shock and amazement at the fact that I have never seen, or been involved in, an accident (that almost changed a couple of nights ago where my auto-rickshaw driver nearly ran over a weaving bicyclist), one usually gets a calming sense that everything will work out, that these drivers somehow know every inch and angle against which they can push, without actually passing the barrier that signals true chaos.
India challenges everything you've ever learned and known. Every day encapsulates such a range of experiences and emotions; from having wonderful, meaningful conversations with locals over chai, to literally being chased and followed down a street by a child wearing filthy rags, begging for rupees or whatever you can possibly offer. Being as my natural inclination is always towards openness and trust, India has forced me to become a little more guarded; to trust far less easily; and to always be making calculations depending on the scenario and situation. It's something I am cognizant of and though it is disappointing for me, it is a reality of traveling in India.
That being said, there is so much rich culture and heritage to admire, and many of the sights are simply the most stunningly beautiful and magnificent things I have ever seen. My camera has certainly been getting a heavy workout every day. Another wonderful thing about traveling in India - perhaps this is true of all travel, but I would emphasize the effect of traveling solo, and in a place of such contrasts - are the opportunities afforded for introspection; really learning your mettle; and finding out what you are capable of. It is truly remarkable what we are each capable of, and sometimes it takes an experience such as traveling to remind oneself of such a fact. At the end of each day, I always try to keep in mind how lucky I am to come from where I do, to have never known for want and to have truly lived a privileged life. It is important to have perspective, especially when faced with such challenging scenes almost daily.
There's a great deal more that I want to say about these things. I probably will at a later point, after I've posted some details of things I've actually done and seen! But in spite of the intense heat of the Rajasthan desert, Udaipur's idyllic beauty calls...
The most vivid description I can offer is that India is an assault on the senses, both magical and terrible at the same time. There is spectacular colour and diversity, but there is equally shocking poverty and filth. Life is lived with seemingly reckless abandonment. It only takes an attempt at crossing the street to see this, where one literally takes their life in their hands at every swerve and turn to avoid an oncoming vehicle. Then again, driving here - mind you, just being a passenger - is one of the most incredibly frightening experiences you can possible have; yet, at the same time, there's a strange calm that accompanies it, as well. Despite my shock and amazement at the fact that I have never seen, or been involved in, an accident (that almost changed a couple of nights ago where my auto-rickshaw driver nearly ran over a weaving bicyclist), one usually gets a calming sense that everything will work out, that these drivers somehow know every inch and angle against which they can push, without actually passing the barrier that signals true chaos.
India challenges everything you've ever learned and known. Every day encapsulates such a range of experiences and emotions; from having wonderful, meaningful conversations with locals over chai, to literally being chased and followed down a street by a child wearing filthy rags, begging for rupees or whatever you can possibly offer. Being as my natural inclination is always towards openness and trust, India has forced me to become a little more guarded; to trust far less easily; and to always be making calculations depending on the scenario and situation. It's something I am cognizant of and though it is disappointing for me, it is a reality of traveling in India.
That being said, there is so much rich culture and heritage to admire, and many of the sights are simply the most stunningly beautiful and magnificent things I have ever seen. My camera has certainly been getting a heavy workout every day. Another wonderful thing about traveling in India - perhaps this is true of all travel, but I would emphasize the effect of traveling solo, and in a place of such contrasts - are the opportunities afforded for introspection; really learning your mettle; and finding out what you are capable of. It is truly remarkable what we are each capable of, and sometimes it takes an experience such as traveling to remind oneself of such a fact. At the end of each day, I always try to keep in mind how lucky I am to come from where I do, to have never known for want and to have truly lived a privileged life. It is important to have perspective, especially when faced with such challenging scenes almost daily.
There's a great deal more that I want to say about these things. I probably will at a later point, after I've posted some details of things I've actually done and seen! But in spite of the intense heat of the Rajasthan desert, Udaipur's idyllic beauty calls...
Monday, May 4, 2009
Giving credit
You may be wondering about, and admiring, the wonderful artwork that now adorns the header of my blog. Naturally, this is not a product of my artistic abilities, but those of my incredibly talented sister, Jen. So for a real treat, navigate away to her blog: http://jen-bern.blogspot.com/. It's A LOT cooler.
Saturday, May 2, 2009
The obligatory disclaimer
I waffled quite a bit regarding whether or not I should begin a blog to post some observations and experiences from my travels abroad. Naturally, publishing one's opinions with the intention of having them circulated and read, perhaps even widely (one can hope), requires at least some narcissicm and self-invovlement. Indeed, I couldn't possibly be doing this trip and having these experiences if I didn't enjoy myself as much as I do. So, despite any fleeting fears of being perceived as overly self-righteous or haughty, I agreed that blogging was a good medium to provide anyone interested with a glimpse into my experiences over the next few months. Much of what I will publish here is simply the words from my personal journal that I deem fit for public consumption. I hope that we can both learn something. In my case, about myself and the world. In the words of Veronica Corningstone, "thanks for stopping by."
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